On to Switzerland! (5/2)
This
morning, I packed my bags and headed to the train station, where I had my
Eurail pass validated, and caught the train for Basel. It was odd to be doing this – and to find the
train so easily – when last Labor Day weekend, it was the Frankfurt station
where I got on the wrong train and then, when I was finally on the right one,
had to get off and on, with a bus ride in between, because a part of the track
was broken. That track has now been fixed, the train was correct, and I just
made some “foreigner mistakes” in finding my correct seat. When the train passed Freiburg, it was all I
could do to NOT get off! I had such a wonderful month in Freiburg! But on I
went, to Basel, a city I had visited twice in my stay in Freiburg. Initially, I
thought I’d only stay one night, but decided on two when I realized there were
more things in Basel I still wanted to see.
My
reservation was for a room in a YMCA close to the train station. Google Maps
got me there, but in a haywire way! The directions tell you to “walk
northeast,” or whatever. I’m usually
pretty good at that kind of directions when I have been in an area for a while,
and know what’s north, and south, etc.. But in a new place, it takes a while
for me to get my bearings, so those directions – at first – are meaningless!
Furthermore, what Google Maps should have told me was, “Walk through the train
station to the other side.” I eventually did that, and then walked way farther
than I would have needed to because GM kept telling me to turn right, turn
left, go southwest, etc., when the YMCA was 2 blocks in a straight line from
the back of the train station! Oh, well
. . . I saw a pretty residential area and a nice park . . .
I
have a single room with a shared bath on the 3rd floor. The room looks out on a lovely residential
area. Clean, safe, and convenient – what more do I need?
One
of the students in my Freiburg class had told me about the art collection at
the Beyeler Foundation, and urged me to get there. The guidebook said it was open on Wednesday
evening, so I made a quick decision to go.
All hotel/hostel guests get a free pass on public transportation with
their room. What a nice amenity! I took two trams out to the outskirts of Basel
on the German side, and was let off right in front of the Foundation Beyeler.
It’s a lovely, modern building with lots of flowering shrubbery.
The current show paired the artists Frances Bacon
and Alberto Giacometti. While I adore Giacometti, I had been unfamiliar with
Bacon. The two were more or less contemporaneous, both born at the beginning of
the 20th century and dying toward the end of the century. Both
studied people, although Giacometti worked in sculpture and Bacon in paint. I
was struck with the space within the Foundation – spectacular rooms for art in
this relatively small museum. The curation of this exhibit was wonderful, with
the pairing of the pieces well thought out. There were videos of both artists –
one with Giacometti working in his studio, and one of Bacon being interviewed.
Both were well shot, and provided insight into each of the artists. There also
was video of each artist’s studio. The Bacon studio was presented in a video
screened on the floor! In fact, the
screen space encompassed the square footage of Bacon’s studio and sleeping
quarters above 2 garages. Amazing and very creative, from a video perspective –
and it conveyed the total chaos of the space within which Bacon thrived. (I couldn’t
help but think of a certain politician who also thrives on chaos!) The video of
Giacometti’s studio was more conventional – as was his studio space, and was
screened on the wall. I really enjoyed this exhibition. If my life takes me back to Basel, I will
make another pilgrimage to the Foundation Bayeler.
By
the time I left the exhibit, I was hungry.
I had seen the sign for the Markthalle, a name that connoted an open
market with lots of good food. (Freiburg has one.) So I went there and was
greeted with about 20 booths of food from different parts of the world, all in
one, open building. I ended up with
Persian food – a beef-and-eggplant dish. Yum! Then I had a small cup of gelato with
2 flavors: apricot and mango. Another yum! Then it was back to the YMCA to
settle in for the night.
I'm caught up now. It's exciting to be following your journeys again. Your descriptions are so vivid! I love your adventuresome spirit. You'll be a master at Google Maps before this trip is over! (Maybe you could hire out to work with Senior Citizens who haven't caught on yet, yours truly being one of them....). Thanks for your generous sharing of your experiences! Since you provided no itinerary (and indeed, you may not have one) other than your June 15th return date, it is going to be fun to find out what cities and countries you stop in.
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